2024 Gembrook Hill Sauvignon Blanc, Yarra Valley

From vines planted on an east-facing slope in Gembrook in '83. Barrel fermented in large format seasoned French oak. Perfumed and pithy. Aromas of pink grapefruit, gooseberry and white flowers together with a gentle herbaceousness. Flows seamlessly on the sapid, fine-boned palate. Another classic sauvignon blanc from Gembrook.

96 points Special Value Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Gembrook Hill Sauvignon Blanc from the Yarra Valley is unlike most Australian examples of the variety. Forget overt tropical punch or aggressive acidity — this is Sauvignon Blanc reimagined through a cool-climate, Old World lens, where texture, restraint and minerality take centre stage. Grown in the high-altitude, forest-lined hills of Gembrook, this wine is a quietly elegant standout, offering sophistication and longevity rarely associated with the variety in Australia.

Planted in 1983, Gembrook Hill's Sauvignon Blanc vines are among the oldest in the Yarra Valley. The vineyard lies in the southernmost, coolest part of the region, where volcanic soils and brisk breezes from the surrounding ranges create an ideal microclimate for building natural acidity and aromatic complexity. The vineyard is dry grown and farmed with a deep respect for balance and biodiversity. Winemaker Andrew Marks takes a minimalist approach in the winery, focusing on texture and savoury nuance rather than primary fruit expression.

Fruit is handpicked and whole-bunch pressed. A portion is fermented and aged in older French oak barrels, with the rest in stainless steel, and extended lees contact adds weight and a subtle creamy edge. There’s no malolactic fermentation — the purity of acidity is part of this wine’s signature.

In the glass, it opens with aromas of white grapefruit, green melon, lemon blossom and fresh herbs, backed by hints of flint, lanolin and struck match. The palate is taut and linear, driven by citrus and mineral notes, but rounded by gentle texture and saline precision. It’s layered, serious and refreshingly dry, more akin to Sancerre or the Loire than Marlborough.

Enjoy it with delicate seafood like sashimi or oysters, goats cheese and fennel tart, or a spring salad with asparagus and preserved lemon. It also has the ability to age beautifully over five to seven years, developing beeswax and toasty complexity with time.