2024 Gemtree Cinnabar GSM Biodynamic, McLaren Vale

53/34/13% grenache/shiraz/mataro. This is the first vintage with Paul Carpenter at the helm after the sale of the Gemtree brand to Warren Randall, with the fruit still coming off Melissa and Mike Brown’s biodynamic vineyard. This is such a lovely weight and so buoyantly bright, but not remotely simple. There’s lots of detail – red fruits and black, savoury accents, dark earthy notes, iron and bay, fennel seed, cacao nibs – but all so poised and effortless, nothing outshining. The structural foundation is compellingly but quietly grippy and vibrant, marshalled for dinner duty. Lovely.

94 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

From one of McLaren Vale’s most distinctive biodynamic vineyards, this Shiraz is Gemtree’s flagship expression of site and philosophy. The Obsidian block is planted on black volcanic soils flecked with ancient ironstone, a dramatic landscape that gives the wine its name and its intensity. Farming is fully biodynamic, with the vineyard treated as a living ecosystem rather than a factory. The aim is fruit with natural energy and balance, not forced ripeness.

Winemaking follows the same low intervention mindset. Fermentation is gentle but thorough, building structure while preserving perfume. Oak maturation is long and careful, chosen to frame the wine rather than sweeten it. Everything is tuned toward depth, clarity and longevity.

Deep inky crimson in colour, the aromas open with blackberry, plum and blueberry layered with dark chocolate, liquorice and cracked pepper. There is an earthy, mineral undertone that hints at the volcanic soils. The palate is full bodied and powerful, with dense dark fruit wrapped in firm, ripe tannins and bright acidity. Flavours of black fruit, spice and savoury notes run long through a persistent, mouthcoating finish.

It pairs beautifully with grilled steak, lamb and slow cooked dishes. While impressive now with air, it will cellar confidently for twelve to fifteen years, developing leathery and earthy complexity.