2024 Gemtree Cinnabar GSM Biodynamic, McLaren Vale

53/34/13% grenache/shiraz/mataro. This is the first vintage with Paul Carpenter at the helm after the sale of the Gemtree brand to Warren Randall, with the fruit still coming off Melissa and Mike Brown’s biodynamic vineyard. This is such a lovely weight and so buoyantly bright, but not remotely simple. There’s lots of detail – red fruits and black, savoury accents, dark earthy notes, iron and bay, fennel seed, cacao nibs – but all so poised and effortless, nothing outshining. The structural foundation is compellingly but quietly grippy and vibrant, marshalled for dinner duty. Lovely.

94 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

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Thank you, great update.

Gemtree was founded by Mike and Melissa Brown and has become one of McLaren Vale’s leaders in certified biodynamic viticulture, farming without synthetic inputs and focusing on soil health as the foundation of wine quality. The estate vineyards sit on ancient soils that give Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre both generosity and structure. The wines are now crafted by winemaker Paul Carpenter, who brings a refined, detail driven approach while staying true to Gemtree’s philosophy of balance, transparency and sustainability.

Cinnabar is the estate’s Rhône inspired GSM blend, with Grenache providing lifted red fruit and perfume, Shiraz delivering depth and mid palate richness, and Mourvèdre contributing savoury structure and fine tannin. Fermentation is handled carefully to preserve freshness, and maturation in seasoned oak supports rather than dominates the fruit. The aim is harmony and drinkability, allowing biodynamic vineyard character to shine through.

Deep ruby in colour, the aromas open with raspberry, blackberry and plum layered with dried herbs, pepper and earthy spice. The palate is medium to full bodied and supple, with dark and red fruit wrapped in fine tannins and bright acidity. Savoury notes and subtle oak carry into a long, balanced finish.

It pairs beautifully with lamb, grilled meats and Mediterranean dishes. Drinking impressively now for its vibrancy and generosity, it will cellar comfortably for eight to twelve years, gaining savoury complexity.

This is McLaren Vale GSM shaped by biodynamic farming and thoughtful winemaking, generous yet structured and unmistakably regional.