2024 Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben, Mosel

Great concentration and brilliance, with enormous old-vine intensity. Off-the-scale wet-stone minerality in the almost endless finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.

98 points James Suckling 

Julian Haart has earned a place among the Mosel's most admired young winemakers, producing Rieslings that combine meticulous craftsmanship with an unwavering respect for some of Germany's greatest vineyard sites. His wines are celebrated for their transparency, purity and ability to express the unique character of each parcel. The Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben is sourced from mature vines rooted deep into the vineyard's famed slate soils, delivering a Kabinett of exceptional elegance, energy and unmistakable sense of place.

Wintricher Ohligsberg is one of the Mosel's hidden gems, a steep south facing vineyard overlooking the river where blue Devonian slate and a cool climate create ideal conditions for Riesling. The old vines naturally produce lower yields of intensely flavoured fruit while retaining the vibrant acidity that defines great Mosel Kabinett. The superb 2024 vintage provided a long, gentle growing season, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly, capturing remarkable aromatic purity, crystalline freshness and outstanding balance.

Pale straw with shimmering green highlights, the bouquet opens with white peach, crisp apple and lime blossom, followed by notes of mandarin zest, fresh mint and delicate white flowers. A distinctive slate driven minerality emerges with time, accompanied by hints of green pear, lemon verbena and wet stone. The palate is beautifully poised, balancing juicy orchard fruit with feather light sweetness and vibrant acidity that gives the wine extraordinary lift and precision. Layers of citrus, mineral freshness and subtle floral notes flow effortlessly across a long, refreshing finish that lingers with elegance and remarkable finesse.

A perfect companion to oysters, sashimi, Vietnamese salads, spicy Thai cuisine, roast pork or soft goat's cheese. Delightful in its youth, this outstanding Kabinett has the structure and balance to evolve beautifully over the next twenty years, gradually revealing even greater complexity while retaining its signature freshness.