2024 Kooyong Estate Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

Potential plus! In the rush for immediate drinking gratification, the potential for further ageing with Chardonnay is often overlooked. This is one wine that asks you to stop and consider what might be. The deep fruit concentration, the role of toasty oak and the still developing nature of the wine might be something you might wish to consider. A sheen of stylish toasty oak roams widely with vanilla pod, woody spices, stone fruits, melon and an attractive savoury note of preserved lemon, all dressed in super bright acidity. The first instinct is to consider more time in the bottle. The second instinct is to wonder just how long? How’s your patience level?

94 points Jeni Port winepilot.com

The Kooyong Estate Chardonnay from the Mornington Peninsula is a benchmark expression of this cool-climate region, showcasing both elegance and precision. Kooyong, established in 1996 and now part of the Port Phillip Estate family, is renowned for its focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, crafted from estate vineyards that benefit from Mornington’s maritime climate, long growing season and diverse soils. The Estate Chardonnay represents a blend of parcels across the property, offering a beautifully balanced snapshot of Kooyong’s house style.

Winemaking is guided by a philosophy of minimal intervention. The fruit is hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed and fermented with wild yeasts in French oak barriques, a portion of which are new. Lees stirring adds texture, while malolactic fermentation is carefully managed to bring depth and creaminess without compromising freshness. The result is a wine that balances generosity of fruit with restraint and fine structure.

In the glass it is pale straw with green tinges. The nose is expressive and layered, showing white peach, lemon curd and nectarine alongside hints of flint, struck match, nougat and toasted hazelnut. On the palate it is medium-bodied and elegant, with juicy stone fruit and citrus carried by bright acidity and a fine mineral backbone. Subtle oak adds spice and savoury complexity, while the finish is long, focused and refreshing.

Food pairings highlight its balance of richness and tension: roast chicken with lemon and thyme, grilled lobster with butter, seared scallops, or vegetarian dishes like pumpkin risotto. It also pairs beautifully with semi-hard cheeses such as Gruyère. With 8 to 10 years of cellaring potential, the wine develops further layers of honey, almond and toast while maintaining its fresh, mineral edge.