2024 Krinklewood Wild Chardonnay Biodynamic, Hunter Valley

Organic and biodynamic fruit sourced from Gemtree in McLaren Vale. After harvest, it was transported as must, then fermented in the Hunter Valley, with maturation in seasoned wood. Glorious dark cherry and mulberry fruit with accents of cacao, musk and licorice. The ripe, primary fruit dances around a vibrant core of red spice. Beautifully made, joyous and intensely flavoured.

95 points Special Value Toni Paterson MW, Halliday Wine Companion

Krinklewood is one of the Hunter Valley’s most distinctive family estates, tucked into the beautiful Broke Fordwich subregion beneath the Brokenback Range. The Windrim family has embraced biodynamic farming for decades, treating the vineyard as a complete living ecosystem and avoiding the chemical-heavy approach of conventional viticulture. Wild Chardonnay is the more adventurous face of Krinklewood — expressive, textural and deliberately less polished around the edges.

The Hunter’s warm climate makes thoughtful picking particularly important with Chardonnay. Biodynamic farming, careful harvest timing and gentle cellar work help retain freshness, while wild fermentation brings texture and a little savoury unpredictability. The 2024 vintage gives the wine ripe fruit without excessive weight, allowing its creamy middle and brighter citrus character to play nicely together.

Pale gold with straw highlights, the nose opens with white peach, nectarine and lemon curd, followed by grapefruit peel, roasted almond and a faint smoky note. With air come hints of sourdough, chamomile and salted butter. The palate is juicy and textured, with ripe stone fruit balanced by bright citrus acidity. There’s a gentle creamy richness through the middle, joined by toasted nuts and a subtle savoury grip, before a mouthwatering finish of preserved lemon and salted almond.

This wants food with plenty of flavour: grilled king prawns with burnt butter and lemon, roast chicken with tarragon, corn fritters with avocado and chilli, mushroom and taleggio toasties or fish tacos with jalapeño and lime. Our pick is the king prawns — sweet shellfish, nutty butter and charred lemon against textured Chardonnay is a rather efficient way to make six prawns feel insufficient.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.