2024 McHenry Hohnen Hazel's Vineyard Chardonnay, Margaret River

An exquisite, chiselled wine offering all the best of what Margaret River can do with this variety and, of course, this producer. Savoury, moreish sulphides, spicy ginger flower and lemon blossom, tangy juicy with subtle oak spices and refined leesy nuances. it’s a classy wine that has an innate power yet feels effortless.

97 points Special Value Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

From the cooler southern reaches of Margaret River, McHenry Hohnen Hazel’s Vineyard Chardonnay is one of the estate’s most refined and quietly powerful expressions. Named after Hazel Hohnen, the vineyard sits on laterite and gravelly soils with strong ocean influence, allowing fruit to ripen slowly while retaining striking natural acidity. Under the guidance of Murray McHenry and David Hohnen, with a deep commitment to biodynamic farming, the wine is crafted with minimal intervention to let site and season speak with clarity.

A pale lemon gold with shimmering green highlights sets the tone. Aromas unfold in elegant layers of white nectarine, lemon zest and grapefruit intertwined with cashew, subtle flint and a delicate savoury edge. There is a beautiful sense of restraint and detail, everything finely tuned rather than overt.

The palate is taut yet textural, delivering citrus and stone fruit flavours framed by vibrant acidity and a firm mineral spine. Nuances of almond meal, brioche and saline freshness build through the mid palate, leading to a long, precise finish that feels both focused and quietly powerful. This is a Chardonnay built on tension and finesse, with the structure to evolve gracefully over ten to fifteen years, gaining layers of nutty complexity and savoury depth.

Freshly shucked oysters with a squeeze of lemon, delicate sashimi sliced clean, or tempura prawns dipped into light soy and citrus. A late evening listen to Arvo Pärt Spiegel im Spiegel or something equally minimal and meditative, the wine holding that same stillness, every detail clear, every element in balance.