2024 Moreau-Naudet Chablis Forêts 1er Cru Magnum 1.5L, Burgundy

This is consistently among my favourite bottlings from this cellar. The 2024 shows exotic notes of passion fruit and kiwi, along with hints of verbena and star anise. The texture is silky and fine, with a touch of richness but nothing heavy. It is still on lees and will not be bottled until June or July of 2026. The grapes are from 1.9ha spread throughout the appellation; fermented and aged in tank. 

94 points Charles Curtis MW, Decanter

The 2024 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, vinified in tank, opens with aromas of orange peel, nashi pear and mirabelle plum, followed by a medium- to full-bodied palate with a generous core of fruit underpinned by incisive acids, concluding with a long, sapid finish.

90-92 points Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate

Moreau Naudet is one of the domaines that has helped redefine what modern Chablis can be. The late Stéphane Moreau built its reputation through old vines, careful vineyard work, natural fermentations and long élevage, favouring texture and vineyard expression over an aggressively lean style. After Stéphane’s sudden death in 2016, his wife Virginie continued the estate and the philosophy they had developed together. Today these are some of the most keenly followed wines in Chablis.

Montmains lies on the left bank of the Serein, southwest of the village of Chablis, with vineyards running along a long southeast facing slope of classic Kimmeridgian limestone and marl. It generally gives a cool, precise expression of Chardonnay, less powerful than the Grand Crus but wonderfully energetic and mineral. The difficult 2024 season delivered a small crop, yet good sites such as Montmains had the natural acidity and concentration to produce beautifully classical Chablis.

Pale straw gold with green flashes. Lemon, green apple and white peach lead into grapefruit and delicate white flowers. Crushed chalk, oyster shell and fresh almond emerge behind the fruit, with a subtle smoky note adding complexity. The palate is taut and finely textured, with citrus and crisp orchard fruit running along bright acidity. Preserved lemon, chalk and a mouthwatering saline character gather towards a long, dry finish.

Kingfish crudo with finger lime and good olive oil would play beautifully with that citrus and saline character. Fresh oysters, grilled scallops, steamed snapper with ginger or zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta would also keep things fresh and uncluttered. Montmains doesn't need a buttery landslide beside it. Give its chalky precision some room to move. Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038.