2024 Moreau-Naudet Forêts Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy

Opening in the glass with aromas of crisp pear, Granny Smith apple and lemon oil, mingled with notes of freshly baked bread, the 2024 Chablis 1er Cru Forêts is medium- to full-bodied, ample and bright, with a crisp core of fruit that simultaneously exhibits considerable ripeness for the vintage, framed by racy acids and a saline finish.

91-93 points Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate

This is consistently among my favourite bottlings from this cellar. The 2024 shows exotic notes of passion fruit and kiwi, along with hints of verbena and star anise. The texture is silky and fine, with a touch of richness but nothing heavy. It is still on lees and will not be bottled until June or July of 2026. The grapes are from 1.9ha spread throughout the appellation; fermented and aged in tank.

94 points, Charles Curtis MW, Decanter

Stéphane Moreau used to call Forêts “one of the greatest terroirs of Chablis.” It’s a historical sub-plot within the Premier Cru Montmains, high up the slope, and facing southeast. It can undoubtedly produce Chablis of the highest order, as both Dauvissat and Moreau have shown many times (Raveneau also has a small parcel). Moreau farms two plots of vines here, totaling just under two hectares. The first plot hugs Vincent Dauvissat’s parcel and shares the same vine age of 60 years. The second (with 25-year-old vines) sits next to the Raveneau plot. As with all the Premier Cru wines (apart from Montmains), t

Moreau Naudet has become one of the most sought after domaines in Chablis, its modern reputation shaped by the late Stéphane Moreau. His approach centred on meticulous vineyard work, natural fermentations and long élevage, producing wines with texture and personality rather than simply chasing razor sharp austerity. After Stéphane’s sudden death in 2016, his wife Virginie continued the domaine with remarkable determination, preserving the philosophy they had developed together.

Forêts sits within the broader Montmains Premier Cru on the left bank of the Serein, but has a personality very much its own. The slope is rich in classic Kimmeridgian limestone and marl, and Forêts can show a little more breadth and intensity than the cooler, straighter expression associated with Montmains itself. The challenging 2024 season produced very small yields, but good vineyards delivered concentrated Chardonnay with excellent natural acidity and wonderfully classical Chablis tension.

Pale straw gold with green highlights. Lemon zest, white peach and crisp pear open into grapefruit and citrus blossom. Oyster shell and crushed chalk follow, with fresh almond, fennel and a faint smoky note adding complexity. The palate has lovely texture through the middle, with citrus and stone fruit wrapped around bright acidity before the mineral side takes control. Preserved lemon, chalk and a salty, almost marine character linger through the long, dry finish.

Grilled scallops with lemon and brown butter have just enough richness for the extra breadth of Forêts. Crab with fennel and citrus, roast snapper, oysters or asparagus with hazelnuts and a soft poached egg could head in quite different directions. I particularly like crab here, served simply enough that the wine’s salty, chalky character gets plenty of room at the table. Drink from 2027 to 2039.