2024 Moreau-Naudet Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru Magnum 1.5L, Burgundy

Opening from the glass with aromas of Granny Smith apple, orange peel and spring flowers, the 2024 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is medium- to full-bodied and concentrated in the context of the vintage, with a satiny attack that leads into a layered core of crisp fruit framed by a chalky grip. As a warmer site, it has performed particularly well in this cool growing season.

90-92 points Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate

Moreau Naudet has become one of the cult names of modern Chablis, its reputation built by the late Stéphane Moreau through old vines, meticulous farming, natural fermentations and long élevage. His wines had more texture and personality than the severe, skeletal style sometimes associated with the region. Following Stéphane’s sudden death in 2016, his wife Virginie continued the domaine with enormous determination, preserving the philosophy they had established together.

Vaillons is one of the great Premier Cru names of the left bank, occupying a broad southeast facing slope across the Serein from the Grand Crus. Classic Kimmeridgian limestone and fossil rich marl give the wine its unmistakable Chablis backbone, while Vaillons typically has a little more flesh and floral character than the steely Montmains family of vineyards nearby. In the small, challenging 2024 vintage, that combination of natural concentration and bright acidity is particularly attractive.

Pale luminous straw with green flashes. Lemon, white peach and crisp pear lead into grapefruit and delicate white flowers. Oyster shell and crushed chalk appear underneath, joined by fennel, fresh almond and a subtle smoky note. The palate is finely textured, with citrus and stone fruit providing a little generosity through the middle before vibrant acidity pulls everything taut. Preserved lemon, chalk and a saline edge carry the long, dry finish.

Crab linguine with lemon, parsley and just a flicker of chilli has enough sweetness and texture to meet Vaillons beautifully. Oysters, grilled scallops, steamed snapper or zucchini flowers filled with ricotta would keep things equally fresh.