2024 Moreau-Naudet Chablis Vieilles Vignes Les Pargues, Burgundy

Sourced from vines planted in 1947, the 2024 Chablis Pargues opens with aromas of nashi pear, lime peel and peach, leading into a medium- to full-bodied wine that is ample yet vibrant, defined by a crisp core of fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish. It is vinified predominantly in tank, with 30% raised in oak.

89-91 points Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate

A much-loved Chablis, Les Pargues comes from a lieu-dit parcel that sits on the ridge between the Montmains and Vosgros Premiers Crus. It has the same exposure as Vaillons and Montmains, so it’s a very handy site. It helps that the vines date to 1947, and produce extremely low yields (15-25hl/ha), contributing to the texture and overall quality of this wine. In short, the position, age of vines, and stony soils produce an intensely mineral wine that is consistently in line with the best 1er crus. Moreau farms 1.8 hectares. Vinified predominantly in tank, with 30% raised in neutral oak on lees, The 2024 Pargues is layered and succulent, yet rocky and energetic with a long, briny finish. 

Moreau Naudet has become one of the most coveted domaines in Chablis, its modern reputation shaped by the late Stéphane Moreau. His philosophy centred on old vines, meticulous vineyard work, natural fermentations and patient élevage, giving the wines considerably more texture and personality than their labels might suggest. After Stéphane’s sudden death in 2016, his wife Virginie continued the domaine with remarkable determination, preserving the style they had established together.

Les Pargues is particularly fascinating. Although classified simply as Chablis, the vineyard lies between the Premier Crus Vaillons and Montmains on a well exposed slope of classic Kimmeridgian limestone and marl. Before phylloxera it enjoyed a considerable reputation, and Moreau Naudet’s old vines make a persuasive case for why. The Vieilles Vignes bottling has a depth and mineral intensity that can comfortably embarrass plenty of Premier Cru Chablis, particularly in a concentrated, low yielding year such as 2024.

Pale luminous straw with green flashes. Lemon zest, white peach and crisp pear lead into grapefruit and delicate blossom. Oyster shell, crushed chalk and fresh almond emerge underneath, with fennel and a subtle smoky note appearing with air. The palate is beautifully focused, with more texture and concentration than you might expect from village Chablis. Citrus and orchard fruit ride bright acidity before preserved lemon, chalk and a mouthwatering saline character stretch across the finish.

A dozen oysters with lemon would make a beautifully uncomplicated start, while kingfish crudo, grilled scallops, crab with fennel or steamed snapper with ginger all leave plenty of room for the wine.