2024 Moreau-Naudet Chablis Magnum 1.5L, Burgundy

Moreau Naudet has become one of the most sought after domaines in Chablis, its modern reputation shaped by the late Stéphane Moreau. His approach centred on careful farming, natural fermentations and patient élevage, producing wines with texture and personality rather than simply lean acidity. Following Stéphane’s sudden death in 2016, his wife Virginie continued the domaine with enormous determination, preserving the philosophy they had developed together. In magnum, even the straight Chablis becomes a rather serious proposition.

The Chardonnay comes from vineyards around Chablis planted on the region’s limestone and marl soils, giving the wine its familiar combination of citrus, freshness and marine character. The 2024 vintage was a difficult one, with frost, rain and mildew dramatically reducing yields, but the surviving fruit could produce wines with excellent acidity and concentration. The 1.5 litre format should allow that youthful energy to evolve particularly slowly and gracefully.

Pale straw with green flashes. Lemon, green apple and white peach lead into grapefruit and delicate white flowers, followed by oyster shell, crushed chalk and fresh fennel. The palate is crisp but not skinny, with citrus and orchard fruit giving a little flesh through the middle before bright acidity tightens everything. Lemon peel, fresh almond and a salty mineral note leave the finish clean, dry and mouthwatering.

This is crying out for a big seafood table rather than one precious little plate. Oysters, king prawns, crab, grilled scallops and a whole snapper with lemon and herbs would make very good company. And being a magnum, there is enough Chablis to survive the first dozen oysters, which seems only sensible.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038, with the magnum format likely to evolve particularly well.