2025 Nathalie & Gilles Fevre Petit Chablis, Burgundy

Nathalie and Gilles Fèvre have Chablis in the blood, with the Fèvre family growing vines around Fontenay près Chablis for generations. Gilles concentrates on the vineyards while Nathalie, a trained oenologist, oversees the winemaking. Their holdings stretch from Petit Chablis through Premier Cru to Grand Cru, and the entry wine carries the same clean, precise approach as the more celebrated bottles further up the ladder.

Petit Chablis generally comes from the higher slopes and plateaux surrounding Chablis, where Chardonnay grows predominantly on Portlandian limestone. The 2025 is made for youthful drinking, capturing the brisk, citrusy side of Chardonnay rather than chasing richness or oak. It is the sort of Chablis to have waiting in the fridge when something salty and fresh appears on the table.

Very pale straw with green highlights. Lemon, green apple and Nashi pear lead into grapefruit and white flowers, with fresh fennel and a subtle stony note underneath. The palate is light, dry and energetic, with crunchy orchard fruit and citrus carried by lively acidity. Lemon zest and green apple sharpen the finish, leaving a clean mineral snap that immediately encourages another sip.

Salt and pepper squid with lime, chilli and coriander is exactly the mood, while freshly shucked oysters, prawn dumplings, kingfish crudo or zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta would be equally happy company. Nothing elaborate is required here. Cold bottle, hot squid, job done.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.