2024 Nathalie & Gilles Fevre Chablis, Burgundy

Nathalie and Gilles Fèvre have deep roots in Chablis, with the Fèvre family growing vines around Fontenay près Chablis for generations. Gilles concentrates on the vineyards while Nathalie, a trained oenologist, oversees the winemaking. Their holdings run from village Chablis through Premier Cru to Grand Cru, and even this regional bottling gets the same attention to purity and site that defines the more serious wines.

Chardonnay grows here on Chablis’ limestone influenced soils, with the cool northern Burgundian climate providing the acidity and slow ripening that shape the region’s unmistakable style. The 2024 season was particularly demanding, with frost, rain and mildew dramatically reducing yields. What survived could produce concentrated, classically shaped wines with excellent freshness, making this a leaner, brighter expression than the riper 2023.

Pale straw with green flashes. Lemon, green apple and white peach open into grapefruit and delicate white flowers, with crushed chalk, oyster shell and fresh fennel underneath. The palate is crisp and finely textured, with citrus and orchard fruit driven by bright acidity. Lemon peel, fresh almond and a subtle saline character gather through the clean, dry finish.

Fresh oysters with lemon are almost too obvious, so let's head towards salt and pepper squid with lime and a little chilli. Kingfish crudo, steamed prawns, crab and fennel salad or zucchini flowers with ricotta would keep things equally fresh. This is the bottle to have properly chilled and ready before the seafood hits the table.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.