2023 Nathalie & Gilles Fevre Fourchaume Chablis Premier Cru, Burgundy

The 2023 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru has an understated nose, yet aeration reveals attractive crushed limestone and oyster shell scents wrapped around Granny Smith and pear aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity that is necessary because there is real weight and fatness to this Fourchaume. It retains admirable delineation on the finish and lingers nicely in the mouth. Tasted blind at the BIVB offices in Chablis.

91 points Vinous

Aromas of white pears and fresh peaches here, mingling with citrus pith and grapefruit. It’s clean, medium-bodied and precise, with a focused finish.

91 points James Suckling

Pale colour, pure fine white fruit, with enough acidity, good grip, not at all too soft, a Fourchaume with some energy and a clean long white fruit aftertaste. May not need too much more elevage.

89-91 points Jasper Morris MW

Nathalie and Gilles Fèvre are deeply rooted in Chablis, with the Fèvre family growing vines here for generations. Their domaine is based in Fontenay près Chablis, where Gilles looks after the vineyards while Nathalie, a trained oenologist, oversees the cellar. Together they produce beautifully precise Chardonnay across the appellation, from straight Chablis through Premier and Grand Cru, with a style that favours purity, texture and a clear expression of each site.

Fourchaume is one of Chablis’ most celebrated Premier Crus, stretching north from the Grand Cru hill along the right bank of the Serein. Its favourable south and southwest facing slopes and Kimmeridgian limestone and marl give Chardonnay both ripeness and that unmistakable marine mineral character. Fourchaume often has more generosity and breadth than the tighter left bank Premier Crus, and the ripe 2023 vintage plays neatly into that personality.

Bright pale gold. Lemon, white peach and ripe pear lead into grapefruit and delicate blossom, followed by oyster shell, crushed chalk and fresh almond. Fennel and a faint smoky note appear with air. The palate has lovely weight without heaviness, with stone fruit and lemon oil filling the middle before fresh acidity and mineral tension pull everything into focus. Preserved citrus, chalk and a saline edge linger through the long, dry finish.

Crab linguine with lemon, parsley and a little chilli has the sweetness and texture to handle Fourchaume’s extra breadth. Grilled scallops with brown butter, roast snapper with fennel, king prawns or zucchini flowers filled with ricotta would be equally comfortable alongside. There is enough substance here for a proper dinner, not just the obligatory dozen oysters.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2039.