2023 Daniel Dampt Bougros Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

Vinified in wood, aged in barrel for 6 months then transferred to stainless steel for a further six months. 8 barrels made. Pale lemon., A touch of nuttiness on the nose. Of course, the barrel takes it on a different path from standard Dampt procedure. The use of wood is better integrated here these days and it goes well with the muscles of Bougros, plus there is good acidity. Still just a little creamy wood to finish. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Jun 2024

90-92 points Jasper Morris MW

Daniel Dampt comes from a long established Chablis family based in Milly, just west of the town itself, with sons Vincent and Sébastien now closely involved in the family domaines. Their extensive holdings stretch from Petit Chablis through an impressive collection of Premier Crus and into the Grand Cru hillside. The wines have long been valued for their classical Chablis character, clear vineyard expression and sensible approach in the cellar.

Bougros occupies the northwestern end of the famous Grand Cru slope, immediately beside Preuses and overlooking the Serein. Its steep exposure and Kimmeridgian limestone soils tend to produce one of the broader, more powerful expressions of Grand Cru Chablis, with greater weight and generosity than some of its more austere neighbours. The 2023 vintage suits that personality particularly well, giving ripe fruit and texture while retaining the mineral backbone expected at this level.

Bright straw gold with lemon, white peach and ripe pear joined by grapefruit and citrus blossom. Oyster shell and crushed chalk emerge underneath, followed by fennel, almond and a faint smoky note. There is impressive breadth through the palate, with ripe orchard and citrus fruit wrapped around a firm core of acidity. The texture is generous without becoming heavy, narrowing towards preserved lemon, saline minerals and almond across a long, powerful finish.

Roast turbot with beurre blanc has enough richness to meet Bougros head on, while scallops with browned butter, grilled lobster, crab with fennel or roast cauliflower with hazelnuts will draw out its more savoury side. This is Grand Cru Chablis with some muscle, so there is no need to treat it like a fragile little flower.

Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2043+.