2024 Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Aligoté Du Jardin, Burgundy

A discrete nose but with width and the impression of some generosity below. Hmm, melting from a generous but still mouth-watering and beautifully balanced. Wide and complex finishing. Delicious finishing.

Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report 

Aligoté has become something of a calling card for Burgundy’s adventurous younger winemakers, and Camille Thiriet is very much part of that movement. After working with Nicolas Potel at Domaine de Bellene, she established Maison Camille Thiriet in 2016 with Canadian winemaker Matt Chittick. Based in Comblanchien, the small operation has developed a devoted following for wines that combine thoughtful vineyard work, gentle handling and a refreshing lack of unnecessary embellishment. Du Jardin is a lovely example of why Aligoté deserves considerably more attention than it once received.

Long regarded as Chardonnay’s less glamorous cousin, Aligoté is now enjoying a well deserved revival. Its naturally lively acidity, citrus character and affinity with limestone soils make it particularly appealing in Burgundy’s changing climate. The cool, wet 2024 growing season was demanding, with disease pressure and reduced yields, but the resulting freshness suits a variety that thrives on energy rather than richness. Du Jardin captures that bright, appetising character while retaining enough texture and savoury detail to make it interesting well beyond the first glass.

Pale straw with greenish reflections, opening with lemon zest, green apple and crisp Nashi pear. Grapefruit and white flowers follow, with fresh fennel, almond and a little crushed stone adding complexity. The palate is brisk and beautifully refreshing, with citrus and crunchy orchard fruit carried by lively acidity. A subtle leesy texture softens the edges before lemon peel, chalk and a faint saline note take over the dry, mouthwatering finish.

Freshly shucked oysters would be excellent, but Aligoté is also wonderful with fried seafood. Think salt and pepper calamari, tempura prawns, grilled sardines with lemon or zucchini fritters with whipped feta. A plate of radishes, good butter and crusty bread would be a very Burgundian way to begin proceedings. Serve chilled, but not so cold that all that lovely detail disappears.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.