2024 Nick O’Leary Chardonnay, Tumbarumba

Nick O’Leary started making wine in Canberra at 26, as winemaker at Hardy’s before they exited the region in 2006. He established his own label immediately, with a simple focus: Riesling and Shiraz from the Canberra District’s best vineyards. The estate vineyard sits in Hall Valley in the Murrumbidgee River corridor, just outside the ACT boundary. Nick has over the years expanded his range of wines considerably to now take in premium vineyard sources across southern NSW.

Tumbarumba Chardonnay keeps holding Canberra District winemakers under its spell. It is a compact but fragmented region where small distances change viticultural conditions in a dramatic way. The red line connecting its growers is the pursuit of excellence. Nick sources his grapes from three of Tumbarumba's oldest vineyards: Johansen, Wondalma and Tooma.

The 2024 proved to be of good quality for Tumbarumba after early season frost damage in some vineyards. Marked by the usual significant diurnal temperature variations, harvest took place over warm and dry autumn days. Chardonnay was once again the star of the vintage.

Grapes were handpicked and whole bunch pressed straight to French barriques and puncheons of which 35% were new, the balance one to four-year old French barriques. Wild yeast fermented and allowed full malolactic fermentation before an extended period on lees during which the barrels are stirred and topped weekly. The wine was not fined, but it was lightly filtered.

The lively nature of Tumbarumba’s Chardonnay has not been shackled by full malolactic or extended lees stirring. Bright and citrus driven, the nose opens with preserved lemon and grapefruit alongside white peach, apricot and struck match. The palate is rich and creamy in texture, with spicy oak framing the fruit.

The structure of this wine will allow it to cellar well over several years. Give the wine some air before serving. Good company with Roasted cauliflower with a white miso glaze or pan-fried trout with fennel.