2024 Nick O’Leary Heywood Riesling, Canberra District

A little estery and subdued on the nose, the palate, too, at first. It does open to reveal lemon balm, lemon-lime juice and zest. The talc-like acidity is almost softish, so the palate isn’t at all tight, making this a juicy, delicious drink.

95 points Special Value Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Nick O’Leary Heywood Riesling from the Canberra District is a vibrant, finely etched and beautifully aromatic expression of Riesling from one of Australia’s most talented cool climate winemakers. Nick O’Leary has built a reputation for crafting some of the country’s most exciting Rieslings, and the Heywood vineyard is one of his standout sites. Located on elevated granitic slopes outside Murrumbateman, the vineyard benefits from cold nights, long sunny days and a steady breeze that preserves natural acidity and intensifies perfume. The soils are a mix of decomposed granite, quartz and sandy loam, giving the wine its piercing citrus line, mineral clarity and electric tension. The site consistently produces fruit of exceptional purity.

Winemaking is minimalistic and focused entirely on clarity. Grapes are hand picked in the cool of morning, pressed gently and fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel to capture the vineyard’s aromatic precision. No oak is used, allowing the wine’s crystalline structure and pure fruit profile to shine. Nick O’Leary’s meticulous approach results in a Riesling that feels simultaneously delicate and powerful, with each vintage showing remarkable definition.

In the glass it appears pale straw with green reflections. The nose is lifted and beautifully detailed with lime zest, lemon pith, jasmine, green apple and fresh talc alongside hints of white peach, river stone, fennel and a faint floral sweetness. As it breathes, the aromatics sharpen further, revealing classic Canberra District notes of citrus blossom and cool mineral spice.

The palate is taut, racy and incredibly precise. Flavours of lime juice, lemon sherbet, crunchy green apple and subtle stone fruit flow across a spine of shimmering acidity. A fine mineral texture runs through the wine, echoing the granite slopes of the Heywood site. The mouthfeel is sleek and refreshing, with a long, driven finish that lingers with lime, chalk and delicate florals. It is a Riesling built for both immediate pleasure and long term ageing, capable of developing honey, toast and lanolin complexity over ten to fifteen years while retaining its brightness.

Pair it with oysters, grilled prawns, Thai dishes with lime and ginger, Vietnamese salads, salt and pepper squid, goat cheese, sashimi, citrus dressed chicken or simply fresh summer vegetables. Its acidity and purity make it one of the most versatile food wines from the region.