2024 Nick Spencer Chardonnay, Tumbarumba

Expect an amalgam of lavender, lime curd, stone fruit, citrus, toffee brittle studded with roasted almonds and lots of spicy oak. It’s a little flinty and moreish, too. The palate is contained, tight and precise, even if layered ever so lightly with some nutty, savoury lees and plenty of brisk acidity, which is highly refreshing and uplifting. Decant, allowing lots of air to bring this together.

95 points Special Value Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Nick Spencer Chardonnay from Tumbarumba is a brilliant expression of high altitude Australian Chardonnay, shaped by one of the country’s most thoughtful and terroir focused winemakers. Tumbarumba sits in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains where cool nights, crisp mornings and long growing seasons create fruit with incredible tension, purity and natural acidity. Spencer sources from select vineyards planted on ancient granitic and volcanic soils that give the wine its mineral backbone and refined structure. The region has become a powerhouse for elegant Australian Chardonnay and this cuvée is one of its most compelling examples.

The winemaking is precise and beautifully restrained. Grapes are hand picked to capture freshness, then whole bunch pressed to protect delicacy. Fermentation takes place with wild yeasts in French oak, using mostly seasoned barrels to keep the wine focused while bringing gentle texture and subtle complexity. Lees stirring is used sparingly, just enough to add shape without compromising the wine’s clarity. Spencer’s approach emphasises purity, balance and a Burgundian sense of finesse, allowing Tumbarumba’s cool climate character to shine through.

In the glass it shows a pale lemon gold colour. The nose is fresh and layered with aromas of white peach, lemon zest, green apple and nashi pear intertwined with hints of almond, flint, jasmine and subtle brioche from barrel fermentation. As it opens, nuances of crushed stone, citrus blossom and faint hazelnut emerge, giving the bouquet depth without heaviness.

The palate is taut, elegant and finely structured. Crisp citrus and stone fruit glide across the tongue carried by bright acidity and a refined mineral thread. Flavours of lemon curd, pear, peach skin and gentle oak spice unfold across a silky yet energetic mid palate. The texture is beautifully balanced with enough creaminess to add charm while maintaining a clean, focused line. The finish is long, precise and slightly saline, lingering with citrus brightness and Tumbarumba’s signature cool climate tension. It is a Chardonnay that balances vibrancy with sophistication and shows clear potential for further development.

It pairs beautifully with lobster, grilled prawns, seared scallops, roast chicken with herbs, creamy mushroom dishes, goat cheese, sashimi or delicate pasta with lemon and butter. Its acidity and finesse make it wonderfully versatile at the table. It can also cellar comfortably for five to eight years, developing extra layers of hazelnut, honey and light toast while retaining its purity.