2025 Nick Spencer Pinot Gris, Hilltops

Nick Spencer Pinot Gris from Hilltops is a stellar example of how New South Wales’ emerging regions can deliver high-quality, food-friendly wines that rival those from better-known areas. Hilltops, located on the south-west slopes of the Great Dividing Range near the town of Young, sits at elevations of 450 to 600 metres, making it one of the coolest inland regions in Australia. The volcanic basalt soils, clean air, and long growing season offer ideal conditions for aromatic whites like Pinot Gris to thrive.

Nick Spencer, a Young-based winemaker with deep roots in NSW, has built a reputation for championing the potential of under-recognised regions through small-batch, expressive wines. His approach to Pinot Gris is focused on preserving purity while adding subtle layers of complexity. Fruit is sourced from premium sites within Hilltops, harvested in the cool of the early morning to lock in freshness.

Fermentation takes place in stainless steel to retain aromatics and brightness. A portion of the wine is left on fine lees and stirred regularly, which gives the wine its characteristic mouthfeel without introducing overt oak influence. There’s no malolactic fermentation, keeping the acid line taut and precise.

In the glass, the wine shows pale straw with a glint of green. Lifted aromatics of green apple, Williams pear, lemon blossom and jasmine float above hints of almond skin and soft spice. The palate opens with ripe pear and white peach, followed by a creamy mid-palate that is balanced by tangy citrus and a whisper of crushed rock minerality. The finish is long, dry and subtly saline.

This is not your average fruity Pinot Gris. It’s a wine of detail and shape, crafted for both easy enjoyment and closer inspection. Perfect with Vietnamese rice paper rolls, grilled quail with chilli and lime, or a goat cheese tart with thyme and honey.

Drink now for maximum freshness or over the next 2 to 3 years to see the textural elements evolve further.