2024 Philip Shaw The Idiot Shiraz, Orange

The name is Philip Shaw's own — a wry acknowledgement that planting Shiraz at 900 metres in a region better known for its whites raised a few eyebrows. The joke, as it turns out, is on the sceptics. Orange Shiraz has a character entirely its own, and The Idiot is a good example of why.

Where warmer region Shiraz reaches for power and density, the cool continental conditions at Koomooloo push the variety toward spice, pepper and dark fruit with a brightness and restraint more reminiscent of the northern Rhône than of the Barossa. Whole berry fermentation in open vats, extended skin contact, and maturation in older French oak keep everything honest and varietal.

Dark garnet with a purple hue, the wine offers red and dark fruits, blueberry and a lifted spice on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, succulent and elegant — fine savoury tannins, good length, and that distinctive cool-climate pepper character running through the finish.

Grilled lamb, duck, slow-cooked beef or charcuterie. Approachable now and will develop nicely over the next three to four years.

Drink now through 2029.