2024 Primo Estate Joseph Pinot Grigio d'Elena, Adelaide Hills

A serious take on pinot grigio with associated texture, medium-bodied intensity, great volume of perfume and an overall savouriness underlying. Quite strict in the palate with chalky pucker ongoing, brown-skinned pear scents and flavours, some rosewater florals going on too, licks of grilled lime, juniper, white pepper and mandarin. It's got complexity, drive and deliciousness on its side. Looks like classically styled, Australian, top-tier grigio has made its mark.

95 points Special Value Mike Bennie for Halliday Wine Companion

Primo Estate has always done things a little differently. Joe Grilli’s family roots run back to southern Italy, while the McLaren Vale estate he established with Dina in 1979 helped introduce Australian drinkers to a distinctly Italian way of thinking about wine and food. JOSEPH is the premium end of the family collection, and d’Elena Pinot Grigio takes its name from Joe’s mother, Elena. Fruit from the cool Adelaide Hills gives this a much more serious personality than the oceans of anonymous Pinot Grigio bearing the same grape name.

The cooler Hills climate allows Pinot Grigio to develop flavour slowly while preserving the freshness so important to the variety. Rather than chasing a neutral, watery style, Primo builds texture and savoury complexity into the wine, giving the 2024 plenty of character alongside its crisp fruit. It is dry and refreshing, but there is enough weight through the middle to make it interesting beyond the first cold glass.

Pale straw with a subtle copper blush, the bouquet opens with Nashi pear, green apple and white peach, followed by lemon blossom, grapefruit and a little honeysuckle. Pear skin, fresh almond and gentle spice add savoury detail. The palate is crisp yet nicely textured, with pear and citrus flowing into white peach and grapefruit pith. Fresh acidity keeps everything lively before a dry finish of almond, citrus peel and subtle spice.

Salt and pepper prawns with chilli and lime would be terrific, alongside zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta, spaghetti vongole, kingfish crudo with finger lime or crispy chicken with fennel and lemon. Our pick is the vongole. Sweet clams, garlic, parsley and salty cooking juices against the pear, citrus and gentle texture make a beautifully uncomplicated match.