2024 Protero Aromatico, Adelaide Hills

Pale in the glass, and there are lifted fragrances of lychee, honeysuckle and rosewater, the gewürz component dominating. The wine is fine and tense on the palate, with refreshing and balanced acidity, medium to full weight and a dry and warming conclusion. The gewürz also adds its typical touch of viscosity to the mouth-feel. Aromatic it certainly is. Drink to 2032.

90 points Huon Hooke for The Real Review, March 2026

The Protero Aromatico is styled after the aromatic white wines of northeastern Italy, with the 2024 a blend of 75% Gewurztraminer and 23% Riesling, the balance being Sauvignon Blanc.

This is a floral, viscous, dry and warming wine, that would sit well with food that lean into crunch, chew, cured salt, and aromatic spice to contrast its slippery mouthfeel. Try with a crispy green papaya and soft-shell crab salad with crushed peanuts and mint, or maybe pan-fried polenta cakes with a salad of charred radicchio, toasted walnuts and salted ricotta.

Drinking well on release, there's no need to hide its beautiful aromatics in the cellar.

About this producer

Protero wines are made by Stephen Pannell of S.C. Pannell with fruit grown in Stephen and his wife Fiona’s Gumeracha vineyard in Adelaide Hills. The steep site sits an elevation of 400 to 500 metres in elevation and features free-draining rocky and loamy soils over brown clay subsoils.