2024 Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Trocken, Pfalz

Von Buhl’s entry-level wine is drawn from the Estate’s great sandstone-rich vineyards around the villages of Deidesheim, Forst and Ruppertsberg. All the vineyards are certified organic. In the cellars, most of the juice naturally ferments in tank, with some parcels fermented in Von Buhl's oval dopplestück oak casks. Even at this level, the wine’s upbringing includes extended lees aging (six months on gross lees). There is no pumping and very little added sulphur. This is a terrific-value dry Riesling, with the juicy palate weight of the vintage proving a perfect foil for the rocky texture, mouthwatering, citrus-edged acidity and near-absolute-dry finish. It will, as always, work wonders by the glass (and bottle).

Reichsrat von Buhl has been part of the Pfalz story since 1849, when Franz Peter Buhl established the estate in Deidesheim. Its vineyards sit along the Mittelhaardt, one of Germany’s great Riesling corridors, and the house has long championed dry wines with clarity and structure. The Pfalz is one of Germany’s warmer, drier regions, protected from much of the rain by the Haardt Mountains, giving Riesling a little more fruit weight without sacrificing freshness.

The 2024 Riesling Trocken is the estate’s wonderfully accessible introduction to that style. Fruit from around the Mittelhaardt brings together ripe citrus and stone fruit with the region’s characteristic mineral edge. Trocken means dry, and there is no mistaking that intent here: bright acidity, clean fruit and a savoury finish make it a very handy bottle at the table.

Pale straw with green flashes. Lime, green apple and white peach lead the way, followed by grapefruit, lemon blossom and a touch of apricot. Ginger and lemongrass add lift, while crushed stone and a faint smoky note sit quietly underneath. The palate is dry and energetic, with juicy citrus and orchard fruit carried by crisp acidity. Lime zest and grapefruit tighten the finish, leaving a refreshing stony snap.

Thai prawns with lime, chilli and coriander would disappear alarmingly quickly alongside a cold bottle. Vietnamese turmeric fish, grilled squid, pork dumplings or a spicy green papaya salad are equally tempting.