2024 Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir, Martinborough

Evident complexity here, with floral, dried herb and savoury tomato adding interest to defined plum and dried berries. A touch of spice and sweet oak nuances are yet to integrate but the scaffolding of finely-tuned acidity and ripe coffee-tinged tannins create an elegant balance of structure and fruit which will see it evolve positively in the near-term 25 Sep 2025 Drink 2025–2032

92 points Stephen Wong MW therealreview.com

Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir is a beautifully layered and expressive wine that showcases the depth and savoury elegance Martinborough is famous for. Te Kairanga, founded in 1984 on land once owned by Martinborough pioneer John Martin, has become a leading name in the region, producing Pinot Noir that balances lifted aromatics with structure and texture. The Runholder bottling is drawn from select estate parcels on the Martinborough Terrace, a gravelly river terrace that provides ideal conditions for producing complex, ageworthy Pinot Noir.

The vineyards are planted on free-draining alluvial gravel and silt soils deposited by the ancient Ruamahanga River. These low-vigour soils encourage deep rooting and naturally restrict yields, producing concentrated fruit with fine tannins and vibrant acidity. Martinborough’s cool, dry climate, marked by warm days and cold nights, allows for a long, even growing season that builds intense flavour while preserving freshness. Fruit is hand harvested and fermented in small open-top vessels, with a portion of whole bunches included to add aromatic lift and textural complexity. The wine is then matured for 10 to 12 months in French oak barriques, a proportion of which are new, to build structure and integrate spice.

In the glass, Runholder Pinot Noir has a deep garnet hue. Aromas of dark cherry, plum, redcurrant, and violet mingle with savoury notes of dried herbs, forest floor, and gentle spice. The palate is medium bodied yet concentrated, with layers of ripe red and dark fruit supported by fine, chalky tannins and a lively acid backbone. A subtle mineral thread and savoury complexity carry through to a long, elegant finish. It’s a Pinot Noir that combines Martinborough’s characteristic structure with polished richness.

This wine pairs beautifully with duck breast and cherry glaze, lamb racks with rosemary, mushroom and thyme risotto, or roasted game birds. It also complements soft cheeses and charcuterie. While drinking well young for its aromatic intensity and supple texture, it will cellar gracefully for 8 to 12 years, developing earthy, gamey nuances with age.