2024 Timo Mayer Volcanic Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

The 2024 Timo Mayer Volcanic Chardonnay is a thrillingly wild ride through the Upper Yarra’s volcanic soils, filtered through the lens of one of the region’s most rebellious winemakers. Sourced from a single steep vineyard in Gladysdale, where red volcanic clay and high elevation give the fruit piercing acidity and mineral tension, this is not your standard Margaret River-style crowd-pleaser. It’s edgy, complex and dripping with character.

In classic Timo fashion, the winemaking is minimal intervention but totally expressive. Wild fermentation in old French oak puncheons, no fining or filtration, and plenty of time on full solids gives the wine a textured, savoury grip. The nose is flinty and smoky, with aromas of preserved lemon, grilled white peach, struck match and salted cashew. Underneath it all is that cool-climate Yarra purity: grapefruit, lemon zest and a long, stony finish that feels more Chablis than New World.

The 2024 vintage in the Upper Yarra was cool and long, allowing for pristine acid retention and beautiful flavour development at lower alcohol levels. The result is a Chardonnay with incredible line and shape—taut and coiled but layered with complexity and nuance.

This is a wine for serious Chardonnay lovers. Pair it with seared scallops and celeriac purée, roast chicken with tarragon, or a buttery artichoke risotto. It’s drinking beautifully now with a bit of air but will reward 5 to 8 years in the cellar as the sulphide notes integrate and the palate fans out.