2024 Verget Terres de Pierres Pouilly-Fuissé, Maconnais

The 2024 Pouilly-Fuissé Terre de Pierres comes mainly from Fuissé, with free-run juice and some end-of-press juices from Vergisson. There is just a patina of wood to be assimilated here, though I find it more engaging than the previous vintage. The palate is well balanced with a harmonious entry and a little grilled walnut and almond here, with a refined and quite persistent finish. This will be difficult to resist in its youth.

88 points Neal Martin, Vinous

Not be confused with the Mâcon-Villages of the same name (Verget releases multiple cuvées under the name Terres de Pierres, which means ‘stony land’), this cuvée is a blend of both free-run and press juices from a rollcall of excellent vineyards in Vergisson and Fuissé. Les Croux (exposed to the west) and the pressed juices of the Premier Crus Sur la Roche and Les Crays bring the cool, mineral line; the south-facing vines in Les Moulins and Les Littes contribute density and layered texture. So, you get both the steel and the silk. The wines fermented naturally and aged in stainless steel vats (70%) and used barrels for six months without stirring. 

The most steely and compact wine so far, it’s a wonderfully composed white Burgundy with citrus and mineral notes, a rocky, tightly wound texture and a piercing, long, chalk-drenched finish. It’s a wine of great class. Wine writer Gerald Asher once said: “If luxury is never cheap, pleasure need not be expensive.” So, if the price of top Meursault and Puligny leaves you giddy, you know what to do. This wine’s typical depth, power and complexity will be revealed with time. It is still a pleasure to drink now, but three-plus years of aging would be ideal.

Jean-Marie Guffens established Verget in 1990, building a reputation for expressive, beautifully crafted Chardonnay from the Mâconnais. His approach centres on carefully selected vineyard parcels and thoughtful winemaking, allowing the character of each site to emerge. Terres de Pierres, meaning lands of stones, celebrates the limestone rich soils that give Pouilly-Fuissé its distinctive mineral character.

The 2024 comes from the celebrated limestone landscapes of southern Burgundy, where Chardonnay develops ripe orchard fruit while retaining freshness and structure. A challenging, relatively cool growing season produced wines with lively acidity and a more restrained profile, making this an appealing vintage for those who favour elegance over excessive richness.

Pale gold with delicate green reflections. White peach, ripe pear and lemon zest mingle with acacia blossom, fresh almond and a subtle chalky note. The palate is supple and finely textured, with juicy stone fruit, bright citrus acidity and a gentle creamy richness. Hints of toasted hazelnut and crushed limestone carry through a long, refreshing finish.

Try it with grilled ocean trout and fennel, delicate crab and sweetcorn fritters, or roasted pumpkin ravioli with sage and browned butter. Its balance of fruit and freshness also makes it a wonderful match for baked leeks with Parmesan and toasted breadcrumbs.

Cellaring: Drink 2026 to 2033. Lovely for its youthful fruit, with the structure to develop additional nutty and savoury complexity.