2024 Vincent Girardin Bourgogne Aligote, Burgundy

Vincent Girardin began his domaine in Santenay in 1980 with just two hectares inherited from his family, eventually building an impressive collection of vineyards across the Côte de Beaune. When the domaine changed hands in 2011, long time winemaker Eric Germain remained at the helm, continuing the shift towards less intervention, restrained élevage and greater purity. Aligoté may sit well below the domaine’s grand Chardonnay vineyards in the hierarchy, but it receives the same thoughtful attention.

Aligoté is Burgundy’s other great white grape, naturally high in acidity and wonderfully suited to limestone soils. The cooler 2024 vintage plays straight into its strengths, giving a wine driven by citrus, green orchard fruit and freshness rather than weight. There is a little texture through the middle, but this is fundamentally about snap, energy and uncomplicated Burgundian drinking.

Very pale straw with green flashes. Lemon, green apple and Nashi pear lead into grapefruit and white flowers, followed by fresh fennel and crushed stone. The palate is light, dry and brisk, with citrus and crisp apple riding lively acidity. Grapefruit peel, fresh almond and a chalky note sharpen the finish, leaving the mouth immediately ready for another sip.

A bowl of steamed mussels with garlic, parsley and white wine is precisely the sort of company Aligoté enjoys. Oysters, gougères, salt and pepper squid or zucchini flowers with goat’s cheese can happily join the party. Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.