2024 Wirra Wirra The Absconder Grenache, McLaren Vale

This has been a favourite of mine since it was introduced a few years ago. Two separate parcels have been vinified using open fermenters and a portion of whole bunches, with extended time on lees. It’s an important process, producing wines that are elegant and medium weight but brilliantly integrated, with tannins sitting harmoniously within. Opens with red rose petal notes, a touch of raspberry, and a subtle earthiness that expresses Grenache so well. The palate is medium-bodied with a lightish colour, yet shows intensity and good fruit weight. Perfectly integrated and seamless. A classy wine from a very good year. Drink to 2035.

96 points Ray Jordan for Wine Pilot, November 2025

Toasted fennel seeds, dark chocolate dipped raspberry and earthy tea aromas lead into a charming core of dark red berries, raspberry leaf, meat and sweet spices. In its youth, its structure feels impenetrable, setting it up for great aging potential. It's dripping with intensity and freshness. With its structure, it's definitely one for the cellar. Drink to 2033.

95 points Gabrielle Poy for The Real Review, November 2025

The 2024 The Absconder Grenache comprises a blend of two sites in White's Valley. One is an organically grown bush-vine block planted in the 1960s, and the other is on terra rossa soils, planted between 1970 and 1990. Aromatically, the wine leads with raspberry seed, cracked peppercorns (in that lovely blood orange way of pink peppercorns), layers of cocoa and tobacco. The palate follows with tapenade and cold black tea and is threaded with caper brine acidity. The wine is powerful and concentrated, but it isn't heavy; and its construction has meant that it retains some levity in the mouth. It was made with some whole bunches in small open fermenters, was basket pressed and had an élevage in French oak puncheons. 2024 is proving to be quite an impressive year in South Australia—one awaits the releases with great anticipation. Drink to 2039.

94 points Erin Larkin for The Wine Advocate, September 2025

Warm sand meets pure, lifted red fruits — raspberry coulis, redcurrant, Bing cherry and mashed strawberry — with white pepper, violets and baking spice adding savoury interest. Dried herbs and red liquorice notes emerge with air. The palate is medium-bodied but weightier than the perfume suggests, remaining decidedly red-fruited. Raspberry, red rose, earth and cocoa powder flow through the mouth. The tannins are fine-but-firm and grainy, while a latent surge of acidity freshens a long finish. Pretty and lifted, yet packing real punch, this rings true to the modern McLaren Vale Grenache renaissance style. A very strong release.

94 points Tom Kline for Wine Pilot, February 2026

Focused, pure aromas of raspberry puree, dark cherries, plums, violets, dark chocolate and baking spices. The medium-bodied palate has finely tuned tannins and bright acidity that lead into blueberry compote, cinnamon bark and cola. There's a lovely depth and texture to the fruit with a well-balanced structure. Drink or hold.

94 points James Suckling, April 2025

More about this wine

This wine is named after Wirra Wirra’s founder Robert Wigley who was involved in the ‘acquisition’ of the famous Adelaide pie-cart. This was the catalyst for him to abscond to McLaren Vale in the late 1800’s. Winemaking was Wigley’s calling and by the turn of the century Wirra Wirra had earned a reputation for making world class wines.

The Absconder is made from a selection of exceptional McLaren Vale Grenache vineyards. In 2024 the chosen vineyards were a 1960 bush vine site in Whites Valley, on red-brown loam, and a vineyard bordering Whites Valley and Aldinga on red-brown loam over limestone.

The parcels were vinified separately, with grapes gently crushed and destemmed into two-tonne open fermentation vessels, some of which had a component of whole bunches. Ferments remained on skins for 7-13 days, with fruit hand plunged and pumped over to extract the desired level of tannin, colour and flavour. The components were then pressed to stainless steel and after a brief settling period, the majority (91%) was filled to seasoned French oak puncheons, while the rest was kept in stainless steel on fine lees. After eight months on malolactic lees, selected components were blended to tank and filtered in preparation for bottling.

About Wirra Wirra

Wirra Wirra was established in 1894 by Robert Strangways Wigley. Having fallen into disrepair after his death in 1926, it was resurrected by Greg Trott, who with his cousin along with his cousin Roger Trott bought the property in 1969. They restored the historic ironstone cellars and revived what is now one of Australia’s most loved names in wine.

The Wirra Wirra team passes by a large slate installation as they enter the winery, inscribed by Greg’s mantra: Never give misery an even break, nor bad wine a second sip. You must be serious about quality, dedicated to your task in life, especially winemaking, but this should all be fun.

Today, the much-enlarged estate vineyards across McLaren Vale are complemented by fruit from long-term growers in the Adelaide Hills, with vineyard work managed by a team lead by viticulturist Anton Groffen. The original estate vineyards around the winery, as well as those the team manages, are certified organic and biodynamic.

The women rule back at the winery, with chief winemaker Emma Wood working closely with Kelly Wellington and Grace Wang. Each wine in the Wirra Wirra portfolio has a defined style but with allowance for vintage variation. The stylistic thread across the wines is a balance of generosity and elegance.