2024 Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache, McLaren Vale

From Block 30, planted in 1946 by Frederick Smart and his son Bernard, barely in his teens. All in 675L ceramic eggs with four months on skins. The '23s were pale, elegant and riveting. The '24 season was warmer, but the lineage of elegance and medium-bodied finesse continues. This is up there with the best Ovitellis, so fragrant and savoury, so much more enchanting on day two, and even more on days three and four. Dried cranberry and red cherry, pomegranate, dehydrated and ground orange peel, pressed and fresh wildflowers. The nose is mesmerising, swirling with rose, musk, wild fennel and medina spice, heady with exotica. Transparent, nothing heavy or sweet, just such poise, such harmony, nothing out of place, yet nothing forced or over polished. The tannins are fine, chewy and layered, the length spectacular.

98 points Special Value Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion

Yangarra Estate Vineyard has become one of the defining names of modern McLaren Vale Grenache, with winemaker Peter Fraser relentlessly exploring the potential of the estate’s old vines, sandy soils and remarkable Blewitt Springs terroir. Ovitelli is one of Yangarra’s most distinctive Grenache releases, made from carefully selected bush vines and matured in large ceramic eggs rather than conventional oak. The result has earned serious recognition: the 2024 was named Grenache of the Year in the Halliday Wine Companion. With production tiny and demand fierce, this is very much a grab-it-while-you-can bottle.

Yangarra’s elevated Blewitt Springs vineyards sit on ancient, sandy soils, an environment beautifully suited to Grenache. The ceramic vessels used for Ovitelli allow the wine to develop texture without adding oak flavour, leaving the perfume, fruit and earthy character of the vineyard completely exposed. The 2024 combines concentration with wonderful energy, showing just how graceful McLaren Vale Grenache can be when power is kept firmly on a leash.

Bright ruby with a translucent crimson edge, the nose spills out with wild raspberry, Morello cherry and redcurrant alongside rose petal, blood orange and dried herbs. With air come fennel seed, pink peppercorn, liquorice and warm earth. The palate is wonderfully supple and energetic, with juicy red fruit carried by fine, sandy tannins and bright acidity. Sour cherry, orange peel and wild herbs ripple through the middle before a long, savoury finish with spice and a dusty mineral note.

This wants lamb kofta with smoky eggplant and tahini, charred quail with pomegranate, slow-roasted pork belly with fennel, harissa-spiced chicken or mushroom flatbread with taleggio. Our pick is the quail, smoky skin, sweet meat and tart pomegranate against fragrant Grenache sounds like a plate that could cause a minor argument over the last piece.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2040.