2024 Yangarra Roux Beaute Roussanne, McLaren Vale

66% of the final blend was fermented and kept on skins for four months in 675L ceramic eggs, with the residual whole-bunch pressed to eggs. Unlike the '23, which required coaxing from the glass to reveal its secrets, this leaps forth. Not brashly, that is not its way, but with elegant certainty. The Estate Roussanne from ’24 is a more effusive affair, while this is stony and mineral, yet still with fruitful depth and power. Orchard fruits, apples, pears, peaches – heirloom of feel – green almond, sage, raw quince, green tea, coriander seeds and dried Persian lime. Pithy, tangy, chewy, such a treasure trove for texture seekers; this is another impeccable release for this groundbreaking wine. Brilliant, and the value for this quality and character is extraordinary.

97+ points Special Value Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion 

Yangarra Estate Vineyard has become one of McLaren Vale’s most adventurous producers, with winemaker Peter Fraser exploring Rhône varieties through old vines, biodynamic farming and thoughtful, low-intervention winemaking. Roux Beauté turns the spotlight onto Roussanne, one of the Rhône’s great white varieties and a particularly intriguing fit for Yangarra’s elevated Blewitt Springs vineyards. This is no anonymous warm-climate white — it’s textural, savoury and wonderfully individual.

The ancient sandy soils and higher elevation of Blewitt Springs help temper McLaren Vale’s Mediterranean warmth, allowing Roussanne to develop flavour while retaining freshness. Yangarra’s biodynamic approach and restrained cellar work build texture without drowning the wine in oak, allowing Roussanne’s naturally waxy, herbal personality to come through beautifully in the 2024.

Pale gold in the glass, the nose opens with white peach, ripe pear and quince alongside honeysuckle, chamomile and preserved lemon. With air come hints of beeswax, fennel seed, fresh almond and dried Mediterranean herbs. The palate is silky and gently waxy, with ripe orchard fruit balanced by citrus freshness and a subtle savoury grip. Lemon oil, pear skin and almond build through the middle before a long, dry finish with herbs and a salty little snap.

This deserves roast chicken with tarragon and lemon, grilled king prawns with saffron butter, pork belly with fennel, roast cauliflower with tahini or scallops with brown butter and almonds. Our pick is the scallops, sweet shellfish, nutty butter and toasted almond against Roussanne’s waxy texture and savoury bite sounds indecently good.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035.