2025 Atlas 172 Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley

A little kerosene here for the petrol heads, waxy frangipane petals, almond, lime zest and powdered schist. Excellent line and persistence, margarita rim salinity. It evokes the glow of January dinner parties at dusk and the richness of nature's scent at that time of year. It has beautiful acids and generosity from what was a remarkable growing season in Watervale. This wine and your cellar are going to be great mates. Drink to 2036.

95+ points (Special Value) Katrina Butler for Halliday Wine Companion, July 2026

From the elevated slopes of Watervale in the Clare Valley, Atlas 172 Riesling captures the precision and purity that have made this subregion a benchmark for Australian Riesling. Named after the original Atlas Survey marker that sits 172 metres above sea level, the wine reflects a site shaped by red loam over limestone soils and cooling afternoon breezes. These conditions allow Riesling to ripen slowly, building intense citrus aromatics while retaining the vibrant acidity that defines the style.

A pale straw hue with brilliant green flashes glints in the glass. Aromas lift with lime zest, lemon juice and green apple layered with jasmine, talc and a fine chalky minerality. There is an immediate sense of clarity and energy.

The palate is dry, focused and mouthwatering, delivering flavours of citrus, kaffir lime and crunchy orchard fruit framed by bright acidity and a tightly wound mineral spine. Subtle notes of lemon pith and slate build through the mid palate, leading to a long, precise finish that feels both refreshing and quietly powerful. While irresistible in its youth, this Watervale Riesling will evolve beautifully over ten to fifteen years, developing toast, honey and gentle kerosene complexity.

Fresh sashimi sliced clean, chilli salt squid straight from the pan, or a punchy green papaya salad bringing heat and crunch to the table. A spin of Cut Copy In Ghost Colours or something shimmering from Empire of the Sun drifting through the speakers, the wine bringing that unmistakable Clare Valley brightness into the night.