2025 Bollini Pinot Grigio, Trentino

Bollini was established in Trentino in 1979 with a clear focus on the crisp, aromatic whites that thrive in Italy’s mountainous north east. Pinot Grigio has become the calling card of the estate, and the cooler vineyards of Trentino give the variety considerably more life than the bland, neutral examples that gave it a rather unfair reputation. This is straightforward drinking, certainly, but there is proper regional character underneath.

The combination of Alpine elevation, warm daytime sunshine and cold nights helps Pinot Grigio retain acidity while developing ripe orchard fruit. The 2025 is made firmly for youthful drinking, with freshness taking priority over weight or winemaking embellishment. There is a little texture through the middle and a gentle savoury edge, giving it enough personality to move effortlessly from aperitivo to the table.

Very pale straw with green highlights, opening with Nashi pear, green apple and white peach. Lemon zest and delicate blossom add lift, followed by fresh fennel and a touch of almond skin. The palate is dry and crisp, with pear and citrus riding on bright acidity. White peach softens the centre before grapefruit peel and almond provide a clean, lightly savoury finish.

King prawns with garlic, chilli and parsley would be terrific, alongside salt and pepper squid, spaghetti alle vongole, zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta or kingfish crudo with lemon and capers. Our pick is the prawns, straight from the grill with plenty of lemon and crusty bread for the juices.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2028.