2025 Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay Biodynamic, Margaret River

The Lord giveth and the Lord taketh away. A warmer than usual vintage, and dry one, resulted in very small crops, so lovers of this wonderful Chardonnay will need to move quickly to ensure they do not miss out. The good news is that the “tiny crops”meant concentrated fruit and a high quality vintage. It does seem that all Margaret River ever does is provide variations on the theme of high quality vintages. Not that we are complaining. As always, harvesting is dictated by the biodynamic calendar and occurred over five different Fruit and Flower harvest days, with two batches harvested on a Moon opposite Saturn Full Moon event. Mock all you like, but the results are evident for all to see in the bottle. A portion of the fruit went into amphorae for two days’ skin contact, while the remainder was whole bunch pressed to puncheons for a wild fermentation (as in a fermentation simply left to nature, with no inoculated yeast additions). Maturation was for seven months in puncheons, with 50% of them new oak. Shimmering lemon gold in colour, this is certainly youthful but wonderfully balanced and seriously concentrated. On the nose, we have notes of stone fruits, jasmine, peaches, nectarines and beautifully integrated oak. The structure is seamless and there is a fine line of acidity running the full length of the wine. Ideally, leave this for two to three years and then drink it over the following ten to twelve. It really does need a little bit of time to completely come together. The intensity is maintained throughout, and the wine is seriously persistent. Notwithstanding the need for a little more time, this is yet another exquisite addition to the Kevin John series. Stunning stuff.

98 points Ken Gargett for Winepilot

The 2025 Kevin John Chardonnay leads with white pineapple and star anise, green apple and white peach. It is gently reductive and tightly coiled, its youth on show as usual at this time of its release cycle. It will be released in May 2026. In the mouth, the wine is typically spicy and concentrated and extraordinarily long through the finish. Despite the saturating concentration of flavor in the mouth, this vintage carries a levity or singularity that is most attractive. This is a quieter vintage, perhaps, and one that will evolve beautifully in time. 13.6% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. According to the technical booklet provided during the tasting, the 2025 vintage at Cullen began early after a warm, dry season and an unusual May heat spike that caused a rare double bud burst in Chardonnay, naturally reducing yields and concentrating flavor. Early bird pressure eased quickly, allowing the tiny crop to ripen with purity. Fruit was hand-harvested across two weeks from old, dry-grown vines. The grapes were hand sorted and destemmed. Certain batches of fruit spent two days in amphora while others were whole-bunch basket pressed into 50% new puncheons. It underwent daily to weekly bâtonnage during the ferment and then was left thereafter. After a wild fermentation and 100% malolactic, the wine spent a further seven months in 50% new puncheons. It was bottled without any filtration.

96+ points Erin Larkin for The Wine Advocate

Pale colour. Fresh grapefruit, nougat, vanilla, roasted almond aromas with hints of limes. Beautifully balanced and classical in structure with ample grapefruit, lemon curd, lime flavours, fine slinky textures, lovely mid-palate creaminess, underlying marzipan, roasted cashew notes and fresh long saline/supple acidity. Builds up chalky/ al dente at the finish with persistent minerally notes. Delicious to drink with superb purity and flow. Seven months maturation in 50% puncheons. Drink now – 2035+ 13.5% alc"

97 points Andrew Caillard MW

Kevin John is one of Australia's great Chardonnays and a wine that helped define Margaret River's place among the world's elite white wine regions. Named in honour of Kevin Cullen, whose vision alongside Diana Cullen helped establish the family estate in Wilyabrup, the wine remains the flagship white of the Cullen portfolio. Under Vanya Cullen's stewardship, the vineyard has become one of Australia's leading biodynamic estates, farmed with an uncompromising commitment to sustainability and site expression.

The fruit comes from the original Cullen vineyard in Wilyabrup, planted on ancient gravelly loam soils just a short distance from the Indian Ocean. Biodynamic farming, meticulous hand work in the vineyard and careful barrel maturation combine to produce a Chardonnay of remarkable purity, detail and longevity. Kevin John sits comfortably among Australia's finest examples of the variety year after year.

The colour is a brilliant pale gold with flashes of green. Aromas of white peach, grapefruit and preserved lemon rise from the glass alongside cashew, struck flint and delicate notes of oatmeal and spice. The palate is powerful yet beautifully restrained, layering citrus and stone fruit over a core of mineral tension and finely integrated oak. There is wonderful texture and concentration, balanced by vibrant acidity and a finish that seems to linger endlessly.

Magnificent with lobster in beurre blanc, roasted marron, free range roast chicken with tarragon or a wild mushroom tart with thyme and parmesan. While captivating in its youth, this is a Chardonnay built for the cellar and should continue to evolve gracefully for two decades or more.