2025 Dune Tirari Touriga Mataro Negroamaro, McLaren Vale

The Lloyd brothers do savoury, light- to mid-weight reds ridiculously well. Here, three varieties with no historical connection – negroamaro, mataro and touriga in roughly equal proportions – picked and fermented together; old oak for six months. It’s a Dune staple, and this is my favourite thus far. Sour black cherry, tapenade, chinotto/sarsaparilla, wild red fruits and bitter herbs, cinchona, ground cassia, black pepper and brown cardamom. It’s floral, too, in a reserved way. Pressed violets and iris. And there’s a maritime quality, iodine, kelp, surf-lashed rocks. It’s got authoritative, natural tannin, carrying the refined, sinewy, just-medium-weight fruit. Like many wines here, there’s an Italian accent, or for me at least. Such a smart offering, such a good food wine, and such stupidly good value.

95 points Special Value Marcus Ellis for Halliday Wine Companion

The Tirari blend captures the Mediterranean soul of McLaren Vale, where warm days, cooling sea breezes and ancient sandy soils allow southern European varieties to thrive. Dune Wines is the project of brothers Peter Lloyd and Duncan Lloyd, with Duncan crafting the wines from carefully selected vineyards across the region. Their approach is thoughtful and minimal in the cellar, allowing the fruit and site to speak clearly. Tirari brings together Touriga Nacional, Mataro and Negroamaro, three varieties well suited to the coastal climate of McLaren Vale and capable of producing wines with aromatic lift, savoury depth and natural balance.

The wine shows a deep crimson colour with vibrant purple edges. Aromas unfold with dark cherry, blackberry and plum layered with violets, dried herbs and warm spice. With air come hints of liquorice, olive tapenade and earthy complexity. The palate is generous yet energetic with fine tannins carrying flavours of black fruits, red plum and savoury spice. Touriga contributes perfume and structure, Mataro adds depth and earthy character, while Negroamaro brings a distinctive savoury edge. The finish is long and textured with a gentle coastal freshness that reflects the McLaren Vale landscape.

It drinks beautifully now and will evolve over the next eight to ten years alongside dishes such as grilled lamb, slow braised beef, roasted eggplant or Mediterranean inspired cooking rich in herbs and spice.