2025 Gemtree Small Batch Fiano Organic, McLaren Vale

This differs from the other Fiano in the stable that is made in tank, while here a fruit selection was raised in 3000L unlined concrete vat for six months with weekly stirring, then racked and returned for three months. This skipped a vintage while the winery transitioned under new ownership. It’s a welcome return. Savoury and saline, textural and pithy, refined and long. Lees have contributed a subtle creaminess and umami overtones. Wild apple, fennel pollen, citron, red apple skin, white miso, a pumice-like mineral note. It’s further evidence that fiano can make serious, elevated wines.

96 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

From organically farmed vineyards in McLaren Vale, Gemtree Small Batch Fiano brings a Mediterranean sensibility to one of South Australia’s most sunlit regions. Founded by Melissa Brown and Mike Brown, Gemtree has become a leader in biodynamic and organic viticulture, focusing on soil health, sustainability and expressive small batch wines. Fiano thrives in the Vale’s warm days and cooling coastal breezes, producing whites with generous flavour, texture and refreshing natural energy.

A pale straw colour with soft green highlights glistens in the glass. Aromas rise with lemon zest, ripe pear and white peach layered with almond blossom, fresh herbs and a subtle savoury edge. There is an inviting brightness here balanced by gentle richness.

The palate is medium bodied and textured, delivering citrus and orchard fruit flavours wrapped around lively acidity and a softly chalky grip. Notes of hazelnut, preserved lemon and saline minerality build through the mid palate, leading to a long, mouthwatering finish that feels both vibrant and satisfying. Best enjoyed over the next three to six years while its fruit purity and savoury detail remain in harmony.

Grilled prawns tossed in garlic and chilli oil, zucchini fritters stacked high with yoghurt and herbs, or wood roasted pumpkin scattered with feta and pine nuts. A spin of Khruangbin The Universe Smiles Upon You or something sun drenched from Tame Impala drifting through the evening air, the wine settling effortlessly into a relaxed McLaren Vale mood.