2025 Giant Steps Bastard Hill Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

Limit 3 per person

Mainly destemmed. A medium-bright crimson. A touch richer and more opulent than the '24. Having said that, this is still a supremely perfumed wine, with aromas of alpine fruits, herbal bitters, orange peel, sandalwood and light rose petal. Medium bodied, with lovely mid-palate intensity and energy. The tannins are just so silky and long. Classic Upper Yarra pinot that will reward cellaring over the next eight to 10 years.

97 points Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion

Bastard Hill is rapidly becoming one of the most important vineyards in the Giant Steps collection. High above Gladysdale in the Upper Yarra, its steep slopes are responsible for the wonderfully irreverent name and some seriously impressive fruit. Giant Steps took custodianship of the vineyard in 2022, giving winemaker Melanie Chester access to a cool, elevated site capable of producing Pinot Noir with perfume, intensity and a distinctly fine boned structure.

At roughly 300 to 400 metres elevation, Bastard Hill experiences significantly cooler conditions than vineyards on the Yarra floor. The steep terrain, volcanic influenced soils and long ripening season allow Pinot Noir to develop flavour slowly while retaining freshness. The 2025 has beautiful concentration, but it is not a big Pinot. Its appeal lies in the tension between ripe fruit, fragrant spice and finely drawn tannins, giving Bastard Hill a personality quite different from the more immediately seductive Applejack.

Clear ruby crimson in colour, the bouquet begins with sour cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant, moving into violet, blood orange and dried herbs. There are intriguing touches of pink peppercorn, clove, black tea and cool forest earth underneath. The palate is tightly shaped and energetic, with crunchy cherry and cranberry framed by fine, savoury tannins. Orange peel, tea leaf and subtle spice emerge as it opens, leading to a persistent, mineral edged finish.

Give it Peking duck pancakes, grilled quail with pomegranate, pork and shiitake gyoza, miso glazed salmon or Korean bulgogi with sesame and spring onion. Our pick is the Peking duck. The sweet crisp skin, hoisin and cucumber play beautifully against the wine's sour cherry, spice and savoury tannin.

Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2042.