2025 Giant Steps Primavera Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

From Lou Primavera's '01-planted vineyard at 300m on red volcanic soils in Woori Yallock. A deep, bright crimson. A more concentrated and brooding Primavera. Aromas of damson plum, dark raspberry, lightly crushed violets and star anise. It's concentrated on the palate, too, with persistent and textured tannins that'll ensure this ages slowly and gracefully over a decade or more. Different from but equally as good as the Bastard Hill, which shares the same soil but is at higher elevation.

97+ points Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion

Primavera is one of the newer voices in the Giant Steps single vineyard collection, giving Melanie Chester another distinct corner of the Yarra Valley to interpret. The vineyard lies at Woori Yallock in the cooler Upper Yarra, where Pinot Noir develops slowly and holds onto its perfume and natural acidity. If Sexton tends towards darker fruit and savoury muscle while Applejack is all fragrance and finesse, Primavera has a particularly pretty, succulent personality of its own.

The cooler Upper Yarra conditions encourage a long, measured ripening season, building flavour without pushing the fruit towards heaviness. The 2025 Primavera feels beautifully composed, with bright red fruit, floral perfume and spice supported by delicate tannins. There is plenty to enjoy immediately, although its balance and structure suggest there is much more to come with a few years in bottle.

Clear ruby with a bright crimson edge, the bouquet is wonderfully aromatic, moving through wild strawberry, red cherry and raspberry into violet, hibiscus and blood orange. A little star anise, pink peppercorn, fresh thyme and black tea add savoury detail. The palate is supple and juicy, with sweet red cherry and cranberry flowing across silky, finely powdered tannins. Orange peel and fragrant spice tighten the middle before a fresh, persistent finish of raspberry, herbs and tea leaf.

Give it Korean barbecue pork with sesame, Peking duck pancakes, grilled ocean trout with soy and ginger, chicken yakitori or crispy mushroom gyoza with chilli oil. Our pick is the Korean pork. Those smoky caramelised edges and sesame against Primavera’s juicy red fruit and fragrant spice should disappear at an alarming rate.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038.