2025 Giant Steps Sexton Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

A blend of Gingin and Bernard clones planted in '97 in Gruyere. Fermented and matured in mainly puncheons and one new 1200L foudre. Expressive with aromas of stone fruits, candied ginger, grapefruit and roasted hazelnut. Just as good on the beautifully concentrated mid-palate, finishing with mouth-watering acidity on the very long, pithy finish. An excellent Sexton to drink now and over the next six to eight years.

97 points Special Value Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion

Sexton Vineyard is where the Giant Steps story really took shape. Planted on the steep slopes of the Warramate Ranges near Gruyere, it became the estate’s home vineyard and remains one of the most recognisable sites in the range. Under winemaker Melanie Chester, Sexton Chardonnay has developed a particularly compelling personality, combining the vineyard’s natural power with a more restrained, finely detailed style.

Sitting between roughly 130 and 210 metres elevation, Sexton’s exposed slopes and shallow gravelly loam over clay and rock naturally restrict vigour. It is a warmer site than Applejack or Bastard Hill, so the Chardonnay generally carries a little more fruit weight and generosity. In 2025 that richness is beautifully balanced by freshness, giving a wine with substance through the middle yet plenty of drive and savoury detail.

Pale golden straw with green highlights, the bouquet opens with ripe nectarine, yellow peach and Meyer lemon, followed by grapefruit oil and citrus blossom. Hazelnut, roasted almond, struck flint and warm sourdough add complexity as it opens. The palate has lovely depth and breadth, with stone fruit and lemon curd wrapped around a creamy, gently savoury texture. Fine acidity keeps everything moving, while subtle oak brings almond and toast before a long finish of citrus, flint and sea salt.

Give it grilled king prawns with sambal butter, scallops with brown butter and lime, steamed snapper with ginger and spring onion, chicken with morels or roasted cauliflower with miso and sesame. Our pick is the king prawns. Sweet shellfish, smoky sambal and butter against Sexton’s ripe fruit, flint and savoury richness should be an absolute cracker.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2039.