2025 Gembrook Hill Sauvignon Blanc, Yarra Valley

Gold star sauvignon blanc. One sip and I was both hooked and convinced. You don’t need to be a Sauvignon Blanc drinker to want to seek this wine out. It’s fine, structured, elegant and well powered, with complex length and all-round class. Stones, grapefruit rind, passionfruit, lemongrass and nectarine flavours mingler with woodsmoke and tonic water. It’s delicious. It’s impressive. And it’s super long. 

95 points Campbell Mattinson for Winefront, May 2026

Gembrook Hill is one of the oldest vineyards in the Upper Yarra subregion, founded in 1983 by Ian and June Marks after a fine combed search of Victoria's wine regions for the right place for what Ian had in mind: cool-climate wine in an old-world mould. The hilly amphitheatre they found in the Upper Yarra is on red volcanic loam soil and enjoys a north-easterly aspect. Ian passed away in 2017, and his work is now carried forward by June and son Andrew, who returned home after years of experiencing vintages across Burgundy, Languedoc, Spain and California. The low yielding vineyard is hand pruned and harvested.

This old vine Sauvignon Blanc goes through wild yeast fermentation in large format old French oak and remains on lees until bottling. This builds texture and complexity at the expense of the bright primary fruit on display in mainstream examples of the variety.

The warmer 2025 season comes through in the wine's weight and intensity. Grapefruit and lemongrass notes sit within a structured, stony framework that remind one of good Sancerre. The finish is long and composed, with a flinty mineral quality that lingers.

Drink it now with a grilled whole fish with herbs and lemon, a leek and goat's cheese tart, or seared scallops with a light butter sauce.

Alternatively, cellar for a couple of years for a more savoury and mellow experience.