2025 Giovanni Rosso Roero Arneis, DOCG, Piedmont

Giovanni Rosso is best known for the superb Nebbiolo grown around Serralunga d’Alba, where the Rosso family has farmed vineyards for more than a century. Davide Rosso took charge of winemaking in 2001 after gaining experience in Burgundy, bringing a particularly thoughtful approach to vineyard expression. Roero Arneis steps away from the family’s serious reds and shows a brighter, more carefree side of Piedmont.

Across the Tanaro River from Barolo, Roero has sandier soils with ancient marine origins, giving Arneis a distinctive combination of perfume, freshness and gentle savoury texture. Once in danger of disappearing from Piedmont’s vineyards, the variety has made a remarkable comeback. The 2025 is all about freshness and drinkability, with enough texture and almondy character to make it far more interesting than a simple aperitif white.

Pale straw with Nashi pear, white peach and crisp apple followed by lemon, citrus blossom and a touch of honeysuckle. Fresh fennel and almond bring a savoury edge to the fruit. The palate is supple and lightly rounded, with pear and peach balanced by lively citrus freshness. A subtle saline note emerges towards the finish alongside lemon peel and that characteristic faintly bitter almond snap.

Grilled prawns with lemon and garlic will disappear happily alongside it, as will spaghetti alle vongole, zucchini flowers with ricotta, vitello tonnato or a plate of burrata with grilled zucchini and basil. It is also exactly the sort of white to open while cooking dinner, although whether much survives until the food arrives is another question. Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.