2025 Kooyong Clonale Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

While it’s no longer the bargain it once was, it’s still a very good drink. You’d buy it with confidence. It’s not complex, but it’s not simple, with plenty of citrus, stone fruit, cashew-like lees and texture plus acidity to enjoy on its own.

93 points Jane Faulkner Halliday Wine Companion

Kooyong has long been one of the quiet benchmarks of the Mornington Peninsula, a single estate set on the cooler, maritime slopes of Tuerong where wind and slow ripening shape wines of finesse rather than force. The Clonale range sits as the introduction to the estate, drawing from younger vines and select parcels, yet still very much carrying the DNA of the site. Under the guidance of winemaker Tim Perrin, the focus remains on clarity, texture and letting the vineyard speak.

There is an immediate sense of freshness, white peach and nectarine layered with lemon zest and a hint of grapefruit. A subtle cashew and almond note sits underneath, the oak influence gentle and well integrated, more about texture than flavour. It feels bright and inviting rather than rich.

The palate is finely balanced, with a clean line of acidity giving the wine shape and energy. Stone fruit and citrus flow through into a lightly savoury finish, where a touch of flint and spice adds interest. It sits comfortably in that cool climate space, enough texture to satisfy, but always with a refreshing edge.

This is a natural at the table. Grilled whiting or flathead with lemon, roast chicken with herbs, or a prawn and fennel pasta all work beautifully. It also pairs nicely with dishes that have a bit of richness, like pork belly with apple, where the acidity can cut through.

Drink it young to enjoy that brightness and lift, though three to five years in bottle will bring a little more roundness and a gentle nutty complexity.