2025 Mulline Portarlington Chardonnay, Geelong

From a vineyard on the water in Port Arlington planted in '94. 20% new French barriques; 15% mlf. A bright green gold. Another restrained, complex and beautifully crafted chardonnay from Mulline in '25! Subtle aromas of stone fruits, fresh honey and a hint of matchstick precede the gentle, impeccably balanced and long palate. Drink now and over the next three to four years. Drink 2026 to 2030.

96+ points Philip Rich for Halliday Wine Companion, Specia Value, April 2026

Mulline Vintners has grown quickly into one of the most exciting small producers in Victoria, and a creation of two Bens — winemaker Ben Mullen and business partner Ben Hine, the name a simple blend of their surnames.

Ben Mullen is a Barossa-born winemaker who spent a decade honing his craft across Australia, New Zealand and France before settling in Geelong and launching Mulline with Ben Hine in 2019. Their focus from the outset has been single-vineyard and subregional wines reflecting the distinct characters of Geelong's three subregions.

The Portarlington Chardonnay comes from the Nurringa Park Vineyard, just one kilometre from the water on the Bellarine Peninsula. The west-facing site combines sandy loam over dark clay and limestone, and despite its coastal location enjoys a warm microclimate. It was planted in 1994 to clones originally selected for sparkling wine production, and the vines consistently produce a tightly wound, white stone fruit expression that is restrained and precise in character. Matured in predominantly seasoned new French oak barriques and with only 15% malolactic fermentation.

The 2025 is beautifully restrained. Subtle stone fruits, fresh honey and a hint of matchstick on the nose, gentle and impeccably balanced. The palate is long and precise, with a quiet confidence that rewards attention.

Drinking well now and likely to evolve nicely to 2030. A Japanese-style carpaccio of snapper with yuzu and micro herbs would be a fine match.