2025 Pico Maccario Gavi di Gavi DOCG, Piedmont

Pico Maccario was founded in 1997 by brothers Pico and Vitaliano Maccario, who have built the estate around a modern, fruit focused approach to Piedmont. Their home is in Mombaruzzo in Monferrato, but for Gavi the story moves east to the hills around the town of Gavi, where Cortese produces one of northern Italy’s most distinctive dry whites. The estate’s trademark red roses at the ends of its vineyard rows have become something of a calling card.

Gavi di Gavi means the Cortese fruit comes specifically from the commune of Gavi, at the historic heart of the DOCG. Here the combination of elevation, cooling Ligurian influence and mineral rich soils gives Cortese its characteristic freshness. The 2025 is all about purity rather than oak, capturing the grape’s citrus, orchard fruit and delicate savoury character while it is young and lively.

Pale straw with green flashes. Lemon, crisp green apple and Nashi pear open into white peach and delicate blossom. Fresh fennel and almond add a subtle savoury note, with a cool mineral character underneath. The palate is dry and beautifully refreshing, with citrus and orchard fruit carried by bright acidity. Lemon peel, green apple and almond skin sharpen the clean, gently saline finish.

Spaghetti alle vongole is almost impossible to argue with here, particularly kept simple with garlic, parsley, chilli and good olive oil. Grilled prawns, kingfish crudo, fried zucchini flowers or a plate of anchovies with lemon would be equally at home. 

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.