2025 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Löss, Kamptal

Bright light straw colour. Pure and primary nose offering crushed pear, apple, grapefruit, pepper, and herbal spice. Generous palate combining a youthful freshness, yet with good roundness, peppery and zesty notes, good volume and a pleasing length.

90 points Andreas Larsson

Schloss Gobelsburg is one of Austria’s great historic wine estates, with a winemaking story stretching back to 1171, when Cistercian monks began cultivating vineyards around the property. Since 1996, Michael and Eva Moosbrugger have guided the estate, combining centuries of tradition with thoughtful, beautifully restrained winemaking. Grüner Veltliner Löss is a wonderfully accessible introduction to the Gobelsburg style, named for the deep wind-blown loess soils that Grüner loves so much.

The 2025 vintage brings youthful fruit, freshness and plenty of aromatic lift. Kamptal sits at a climatic crossroads, with warm Pannonian air meeting cool currents descending from the Waldviertel. Those cool nights help preserve acidity, while the soft, deep loess soils give Grüner its characteristic generosity, gentle texture and savoury personality.

Pale straw with green highlights, the nose opens with crunchy pear, green apple and white peach alongside lemon zest, fresh herbs and white pepper. With air come hints of fennel, radish leaf and fresh almond. The palate is bright and juicy, with crisp orchard fruit carried by lively acidity and a subtle creamy texture. Pear skin, citrus and pepper build through the middle before a dry, mouthwatering finish with a lovely savoury snap.

This is one of those wonderfully useful bottles: Wiener schnitzel with lemon, crispy pork dumplings, grilled trout with horseradish cream, asparagus with brown butter or salt-and-pepper squid. Our pick is the dumplings, juicy pork, ginger and soy against Grüner’s pear and peppery freshness is dangerously easy work.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.