2022 Schloss Gobelsburg Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal

This wonderfully fragrant riesling has notes of lemon peel, peaches, persimmon and rosemary. The attractive fresh-herb character continues on the palate, which is medium-bodied yet packs in plenty of flavor. Very long. Drink or hold.

95 points James Suckling

Schloss Gobelsburg is one of Austria’s great historic estates, with a winemaking story stretching back to 1171, when Cistercian monks began cultivating vineyards in the Kamptal. Since 1996, Michael and Eva Moosbrugger have guided the estate, combining centuries of tradition with thoughtful, site-driven winemaking. Gaisberg is one of the Kamptal’s great Riesling vineyards, a steep, elevated slope between Strass and Zöbing that produces wines with wonderful energy, structure and longevity.

Gaisberg’s vines grow predominantly on ancient crystalline rock, with schist and gneiss giving Riesling a distinctly stony personality. The vineyard is cooled by air flowing down from the Waldviertel, while warmer Pannonian influences encourage full ripening. The 2022 vintage brings ripe fruit and generosity, but Gaisberg’s altitude and rocky soils keep the wine taut and beautifully alive.

Pale gold in the glass, the nose opens with lime, white peach and ripe apricot alongside grapefruit zest and delicate blossom. With air come hints of wet stone, fresh herbs and a little preserved lemon. The palate has lovely concentration, with citrus and stone fruit driven by bright acidity and a firm rocky core. Apricot skin, lime oil and subtle herbal notes build through the middle before a long, dry finish of grapefruit, stone and gentle spice.

This deserves something with a little finesse: grilled trout with brown butter and capers, schnitzel with cucumber and dill salad, scallops with ginger and lime, roast pork with apple or sashimi with ponzu. Our pick is the trout, nutty brown butter, salty capers and sweet fish against Gaisberg’s lime and rocky bite is a rather magnificent piece of Austrian matchmaking.