Bollinger Rose, Champagne

96 points Tyson Stelzer

Disgorged January 2018, Tasted in Champagne and Australia

24% chardonnay, 62% pinot, 14% meunier; more than 85% grand cru and premier cru; 5–6% red wine; 7–8g/L dosage

Bollinger Rosé NV has doubled in volume since its much-celebrated introduction in 2008, though it still represents just 250,000 bottles, merely one-tenth of Special Cuvée. The blend is now slightly different to Special Cuvée, to which is added pinot noir red wine from the grand cru villages of Verzenay (predominantly) and Aÿ, which has been made with one-third of whole bunches since 2015, with a long pre-ferment maceration, before maturing in barrel for 12 months. The house prides itself on its red wine, and such is its strength, concentration, depth of colour and robust tannin structure that a tiny 5–6% is all that is required. Like Special Cuvée, it is matured 3–4 years on lees. While the proportion of reserves in Special Cuvée have increased from 40% to 60% over the past decade, reserves for Rosé Brut have been held stable to maintain freshness.

This is a breathtaking rosé, full-bodied in every way, with magnificent stature, spellbinding purity and impeccable poise. Greater elegance is the aspiration, and it meets the brief with effortless grace and a gorgeous medium-salmon hue. Pinot noir communicates its characterful poise in very pretty red cherry, and wild strawberry fruit, transposed on a background of classic Bollinger complexity of mixed spice, even subtle suggestions of coffee bean and dark chocolate. It’s all intricately laced together with fine-tuned acidity, a creamy bead and subtle tannin texture, illuminated brilliantly by glittering chalk minerality, carrying the finish with delightful persistence and effortless poise. A rosé that delivers that great paradox of vibrant liveliness and profound depth.