Bruno Paillard Brut Blanc de Blancs Cote des Blancs Magnum 1.5L, Champagne

Bruno Paillard founded his Champagne house in 1981 at just 27, selling his prized vintage Jaguar to help finance the venture. In a region dominated by houses with centuries behind them, it was a daring beginning. Paillard built his reputation around long ageing, restrained dosage and freshness, gradually acquiring vineyards of his own along the way. His daughter Alice joined the business in 2007 and now works alongside him, continuing one of Champagne’s more individual modern stories.

The Blanc de Blancs is pure Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, the chalk rich home of some of Champagne’s most prized Chardonnay vineyards. Paillard describes the style as combining the elegance of the northern Côte des Blancs with the greater richness found further south. Extended lees ageing adds texture and complexity, but the emphasis remains on citrus, chalk and the fine boned energy that makes Blanc de Blancs so irresistible.

Pale gold with green highlights and a very fine, persistent bead. Lemon, grapefruit and crisp pear lead into white peach and citrus blossom, with brioche and fresh almond developing behind them. Chalk, oyster shell and a hint of ginger add another dimension. The palate is beautifully focused, with a creamy mousse wrapped around bright citrus and orchard fruit. Fresh acidity keeps everything taut, while lemon zest, almond and a saline, chalky note linger through the long, dry finish.

Fresh oysters need little more than lemon alongside it, while kingfish sashimi, grilled scallops, tempura prawns or crab with a light citrus dressing all play beautifully to the Chardonnay. Cellaring: Drink now to 2036.