2004 Bruno Paillard Brut Millesime Assemblage Cote des Blancs Magnum 1.5L, Champagne

Medium yellow, silver shimmers, gentle mousse. Scented notes of fine nougat and Turkish delight, a touch of herbal spice pervaded by a hint of cucumber and fresh dates. Juicy, good complexity, ripe yellow apple nuances, mineral and gripping. A reliable food accompaniment.

95 points Falstaff

48% Chardonnay, 52% Pinot Noir, sourced from 9 of the best terroirs in the heart of Champagne; 100% Cote des Blancs with 40% les Mesnil and 40% Oger; 9 years on leese; extra Brut, very low dosage: 5g/L.

Bruno Paillard founded his Champagne house in 1981 at just 27 years of age, an audacious move in a region dominated by houses with centuries of history. From the outset he pursued long ageing, low dosage and extensive use of reserve wines, building a distinctive house style around freshness rather than sheer richness. His daughter Alice Paillard joined the business in 2007 and today works alongside him. The 2004 Brut Millésimé Assemblage is particularly intriguing now, with more than two decades of development behind the vintage.

The Assemblage draws together Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with the Côte des Blancs playing an important role in the Chardonnay component. The 2004 vintage is remembered for a large, healthy crop and a long, even growing season, producing Champagnes with excellent balance and classical acidity. Extended maturation has transformed the youthful citrus and orchard fruit into something far more complex, yet the vintage's freshness remains at the core.

Deep golden straw with a fine, persistent bead. Preserved lemon, baked apple and ripe pear lead into dried apricot and candied citrus, followed by brioche, toasted almond and hazelnut. With air come honey, chalk, ginger and subtle mushroom notes. The palate is creamy and expansive but beautifully controlled, with mature orchard fruit and citrus carried by fine acidity. Toast, almond and lemon curd move towards chalk, gentle spice and a long, savoury finish.

Butter poached lobster would be magnificent here, but roast scallops, turbot with beurre blanc, crab with brown butter or a wild mushroom and Comté tart would give this mature Champagne plenty to work with. Our pick is the lobster, served simply enough that the wine remains the main event. At twenty plus years old, it has earned top billing.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035, although well stored bottles may continue comfortably beyond that.