Champagne Fleury Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne

Champagne Fleury is one of the great pioneers of organic and biodynamic Champagne. The family has grown vines in Courteron in the Côte des Bar since 1895, and Jean Pierre Fleury began converting the vineyards to biodynamics in 1989, extraordinarily early for the region. Today the next generation continues that work, and Fleury has become a reference point for growers who want Champagne to speak as clearly about farming and place as it does about bubbles.

The Blanc de Noirs is built around Pinot Noir from the Côte des Bar, where the rolling hills and Kimmeridgian limestone soils have more in common geologically with nearby Chablis than with the vineyards further north around Reims. Pinot Noir gives the wine considerably more body and vinous character than a typical Blanc de Blancs, while the chalky soils and cool climate keep everything fresh. This is Champagne with a little flesh on its bones.

Pale gold with a fine bead. Red apple, ripe pear and wild strawberry lead into lemon and pink grapefruit, followed by brioche and toasted almond. A little spice and dried citrus appear with air, alongside chalk and a gentle earthy note. The palate is generous and creamy, with orchard fruit and subtle red berries wrapped around a lively mousse. Citrus peel, almond and savoury mineral notes carry the dry, persistent finish.

Peking duck pancakes would be tremendous fun with the Pinot Noir richness, while seared tuna, grilled scallops, mushroom and Comté tart or tempura prawns would all handle its extra body beautifully. Blanc de Noirs gives us permission to move well beyond oysters, which seems only fair.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034.